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Lightweight chiffon and silky fabrics can be challenging to work with, but the results are worth it! Follow these tips to get perfect stitches every time.

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Sewing with chiffon can be tricky, even for the best of us.  After spending several decades working with all types of fabrics I have learned a few tips and tricks along the way and wanted to share some insights with you to (hopefully) save you some trouble along the way.

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When cutting chiffon fabric use tissue paper and a rotary blade.

If you’re cutting chiffon fabric, you might be feeling like you’re cutting through a cloud! The slippery material can seem impossible to handle without cutting mistakes. But by using tissue paper and a rotary blade, cutting chiffon fabric is nothing but a breeze! Not only will using tissue paper prevent the fabric from slipping around, but the sharp blades provide a more precise cut. So if you want your creations with chiffon fabric to look their best, it’s definitely worth investing in these tools!

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You do not want to cut your pieces out how you normally do with other fabrics.  Typically, you sandwich the fabric together and then cut the pieces out producing two mirror image pieces.  If you have ever tried this and noticed that the pattern pieces come out all wonky and not exactly like how you cut them.  Let’s fix that.

With slinky, slippery fabrics, like chiffon, you do not want to double up the fabric.  Instead, lay the fabric out in a single layer on your work surface.

You can stabilize the fabric using spray starch.  Now, this will work with synthetic fabric but if you are working with 100% silk this is a big no-no, as silk and water do not go well together, and you may end up staining your fabric.

Use the tissue paper method to help stabilize the fabric.  You do this by laying a piece of tissue paper on top of the chiffon (if you really want to ensure it stays put, you can sandwich it between layers of tissue, but I find great results with only the one layer).  Pin them together (with fine silk pins) or use pattern weights – which is my personal favorite.

Do not use scissors – use a rotary cutter.  If you have tight curves and turns invest in a smaller blade rotary cutter as well.  NOTE:  cutting through any paper (even tissue paper) will dull your blades quicker so I keep a separate rotary cutter just for this and change my blades regularly.

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When transferring notches and pattern markings for sheer and slippery fabrics use tailor’s tacks, chalk, or a marker; do not cut your notches into the fabric.

Transferring sewing pattern markings onto chiffon or any other sheer or slippery fabrics doesn’t have to be as slippery an endeavor as you might think! With the right tools, transfer notches and pattern markings with ease. It’s best to use tailor’s tacks, chalk, or a marker – no cutting allowed! This way, you save yourself time and trouble later when assembling your garment – it pays off to do the transfer right the first time and avoid those notches fraying away (as they will) and not being able to tell where you cut the notches in the first place.

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As chiffon frays do not cut out notches.  Instead use a water-soluble blue marker on a lighter fabric.  Alternatively, if you have a patterned or dark fabric use the couture method of tailor tacks.  (Check out the video on how to do this).

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Prepare slippery fabrics to sew by reducing the stitch length, changing to a smaller needle, and using tissue paper “starters” for sewing.

Sewing with slippery fabrics can be quite tricky and requires a few specific preparation steps. Before you thread your needle, you should remember to reduce the stitch length as this should be produce a better result, switch to a smaller needle, and use tissue paper ‘starters’ as your guide in order to secure a clean and professional finish. Not only does this make the sewing process easier but it also prevents those dreaded ‘thread nests’ and gives you that expert touch. If you get stuck along the way, just remember that how you prepare slippery fabrics is how you will sew – with care and precision!

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• Do some test stitching before you start working on your garment.
• Adjust your stitch length so that it is a bit shorter.
• Check your tension.  Sometimes you get a bit of ruching or puckering, this means that the tension is a bit too high.  Lower the tension.

Having trouble with getting those ‘thread balls’ underneath when you try and start your stitching?  Let’s fix that.

• If your machine has a throat plate that can flip around so that it has one side for all stitches (nice and wide) and another end that is just a tiny hole, flip it – that is for your straight stitch only.  This prevents having more surface area exposed to the feed dogs which results in a greater likelihood of your fabric being sucked down into the throat plate and creating a hairy mess of thread.
• Now, if you do not have an interchangeable throat plate, I also have a solution for you.  Take a piece of tape and cover the plate (just the hole – do not go over the feed dogs).  This allows only your needle to go through.

Change your needle (I prefer a 70/10) and thread (thin polyester or silk is a good choice).

Remember that tissue paper we used when we cut out our fabric?  Do not throw it out.  It acts as a stabilizer when you sew and is especially helpful for starting your seams.  You can also use tear away stabilizer just like you use with your embroidery.  If you use just a small piece of tissue at the start and ends of the seams it helps prevent the fabric from getting sucked down.

If you have a walking foot (like in quilting) this is a great tool to help, as it feeds the fabric through on both the bottom and the top at the same time providing a more even stitch.

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When sewing with chiffon fabrics, never back stitch, though you should tie your thread tails to secure them.

Sewing with chiffon can be a tricky – and sometimes slippery – endeavor. Never back stitch to secure your stitches, as you typically would with most other fabrics, as the pull of the fabric while stitching could cause the stitches to form a big next of thread and get sucked into the throat of your machine. But that doesn’t mean you’re left in a flutter! The secret is to tie off your thread tails into secure knots instead (just like we do when finishing any dart point! Not only will this keep your projects looking neat and tidy, but it also helps each stitch stand firmly against slipping away from neglectful ‘no thread securing at all – you don’t want your gorgeous dress to unravel now do you?

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Do some test stitching before you start working on your garment.

Adjust your stitch length so that it is a bit shorter.

Check your tension.  Sometimes you get a bit of ruching or puckering, this means that the tension is a bit too high.  Lower the tension.

Having trouble with getting those ‘thread balls’ underneath when you try and start your stitching?  Let’s fix that.

If your machine has a throat plate that can flip around so that it has one side for all stitches (nice and wide) and another end that is just a tiny hole, flip it – that is for your straight stitch only.  This prevents having more surface area exposed to the feed dogs which results in a greater likelihood of your fabric being sucked down into the throat plate and creating a hairy mess of thread.

Now, if you do not have an interchangeable throat plate, I also have a solution for you.  Take a piece of tape and cover the plate (just the hole – do not go over the feed dogs).  This allows only your needle to go through.

Change your needle (I prefer a 70/10) and thread (thin polyester or silk is a good choice).

Remember that tissue paper we used when we cut out our fabric?  Do not throw it out.  It acts as a stabilizer when you sew and is especially helpful for starting your seams.  You can also use tear away stabilizer just like you use with your embroidery.  If you use just a small piece of tissue at the start and ends of the seams it helps prevent the fabric from getting sucked down.

If you have a walking foot (like in quilting) this is a great tool to help, as it feeds the fabric through on both the bottom and the top at the same time providing a more even stitch.

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Finish the seams of light and sheer fabrics with a narrow French Seam.

Seaming fabric can often be a time-consuming, painstaking process. Nevertheless, the finish of light and sheer fabrics requires something special – the French Seam. This dainty finish will give your garments an extra touch of sophistication and elegance. While not for the faint of heart, such delicate fabrics demand finesse when it comes to their seams; with patience and practice you’ll soon find French Seams as easy as making a buttonhole. With just a few stitches you can finish your fabric with flair fit for royalty!

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You can zig-zag or overlock, but you will see those stitches on the right side since it is a sheer fabric.  My personal preference is to sew a French seam (check out the video on how to do this).

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When hemming lightweight and sheer fabrics, use a narrow-rolled hem (either by machine or hand stitched).

Sometimes, projects call for a lightweight and sheer fabric like chiffon. These delicate fabrics can be difficult to work with and how to hem them often needs special attention. To make sure the job is done right, use a narrow-rolled hem – either by hand or machine stitching. Not only will it create elegant, perfectly hemmed edges whatever type of fabric you’re working with, it makes your project that much more impressive! Make sure to practice with scrap fabric before starting on your project proper – that way you can perfect the art of how to hem chiffon just in time.

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Now that you know these tips and tricks for sewing with tricky fabrics, go forth and sew to your heart’s content! But before you do, be sure to check out our video tutorial on YouTube for a more in-depth demonstration of these techniques. And as always, happy sewing!

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